Sunday, 2 April 2017

Kashi or Banaras or Varanasi

Banaras, Varanasi or Kashi whatever you choose to call, this city is my favorite. Full of fun, frivolity, food, milk products, careless wanders, intrigue and magnetism!

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Kashi is said to be the land of Shiva the place to wash away your sins - according to Hindu scriptures. The Ganges is the place where last rites for souls takes place and people gather from around the world to dip and wash away their sins. Now no one drives people here except their free will. I have noticed people get magnetized to Banaras for its ancient Hindu / Islamic charm, Kashi Vishwanath, yoga and for the pure pursuit of music. People stay in Banaras long term to learn music, the mystique of the place lingers on for years after you have departed from there.

The many ghats of Kashi is the place to hang out for me, I used to walk miles and yet not be tired but I now know that it was the artist in me that found creative or spiritual healing in doing so. For creativity is nothing but spirituality as per the book ‘the artist’s way’ by Julia Cameron. 
I even noticed that lots of people from down south have migrated here and live here for the land satisfies the deep longing within them. The result is awesome as you get one of the best South Indian foods you could ever find.

Being a prime tourist place of India the guides speak many world languages like French, Spanish, Italian and of course English. It’s said places have a vibration so I now understand what kept bringing me to Kashi time and again.
I remember this experience so vividly when we were travelling in an auto from the train station to the hotel, this auto driver played amazing music, new and old hindi songs of the 90’s from the time when I was growing up. Wow that ride was superbly interesting and one of the most happy moments of my life. After which I went to many audio shops to copy those songs on my thumb drive. LOL!
Like tobacco or alcohol, weed is the normal addiction people take up in Banaras. People chew ‘bhang’ or ‘weed’ in all sorts of places and zoom around. Even one of the mediocre restaurants where we had stopped by for lunch had a steward who was  zoned out and the entertainment factor for us under the amazing influence of bhang! Also reminds me of my recent experience in Kathmandu when I was wandering with my kids in an area called Thamel, a localite came up to me and wanted to shake hands. That guy had a slit on his throat as if someone had run a sharp knife around it. Me and my kids were frightened at the very look and distanced from him. That was gross! Another British guy was sitting on the street and giving orchestra music with due respect to drums, violin, flute. He played it all humming them from his mouth. What a sight and what talent after the weed! I am clubbing Kathmandu and Banaras experiences here as they are both quite similar! :)

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During one of our trips to Kashi, our train was delayed by some 10 hours, as we didn’t get return tickets from Kashi, adventure brought us to a station called ‘Mughal Sarai’, near Kashi. A place where you will find many street kids begging but on drugs. It was a scary sight because these kids worked as a gang, that was monitored by some rowdy adults and resorted to stealing from trains that halted in Mughal Sarai train station. That night was a night to remember, we were on guard and really scared of being attacked by the gang. There were many passengers in the platform but I don’t know why we thought we would be the chosen ones! LOLs!
Coming back to Kashi Ghat, where the evening Artis take place, is an event to attend, it surely glorifies the appearance of Ganges in the dusk. With the many devotees and tourists lighting ‘diyas’ and floating them in the Ganges brings deep solace, the moment just freezes with a group of priests doing the Ganga Arti at the ghat.

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Waking up to the jalebis, rabri, rasmalai and awesome tea is another beauty of Banaras. The traditional Banarsi food detoxifies the body, mind and soul! The narrow lanes of Banaras flooded with cow dung gives village feel to this beautiful city, the air though dusty is surely refreshing!

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Getting into Kashi Vishwanath used to be great challenge for me as the Banarsis always thought in all my visits that I was a foreigner and not allowed in a Hindu temple. After proving to them by speaking in Hindi and other ways, I got entry in the temple that used to be flooded with monkeys and baby monkeys. LOL. Wow what an experience. The peace and hope it brought me can last at least a lifetime!
Banaras is also known for samosas, pakodas, aloo dum & puri and ganas (sugar cane) along with being a centre for spirituality, will always hold great attraction for me. Oh yes and my favourite place for lunch the Devi Annapurna temple! People from all around the world are served free South Indian food, which is the bestest food in the world and simply YUMMY! Of course it’s upto you to leave a donation. But you are served the food with lots of love and yes the food is super hot yet the best South Indian Thali you can ever have. The many South Indians who come for pilgrimage or last rites eat here. It is believed that whosoever takes rice grains from Annapurna Devi never has lack of wealth and food! You are supposed to take it back home and cook it as kheer or rice pudding and eat it with all your family members as it is divinely nourishing!
One of the best way to commute in Banaras is in a rickshaw that way you get to enjoy the street view and see the many vendors as well as capture the local sights. Sarees are manufactured in Banaras and are supplied in bulk to other parts of India especially South of India and exported to other countries as well. Plenty of restaurants are there to cater to foreigners as well as hotels that are priced highly for their foreign clientele, especially the ones facing the Ganges or the ones on the ghat.

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The famous Banaras Hindu University or BHU is worth a look around and the Sarnath Buddha stupa worth a visit too. Banaras and its very sensual sound, is for sure one of my favorite cities in the world because we have that chemistry going even now!!! Love you Banaras for your authenticity!

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